Sunday, 29 April 2012

Antique & vintage fabrics from the mills

I have recently bought a box of damask cloths and other table linens at auction and found in the box three bolts of antique cotton fabric. I do sell antique and vintage fabrics by the yard/metre but what makes these ones interesting is the Bolt Stamp which is still on the end of the roll of fabric.





Bolt stamps were made from a block of wood, usually sycamore, with strips of copper inserted edgeways into the wood to create decorative patterns and pictures. Like the labels, these could be very elaborate, and sometimes involved more that one colour. The stamp was a method to add a logo to the cloth - a more permanent method than paper labels.

The stamps took about 2 weeks to make. In 1900 they would cost about £7 - £10, by the 1960s they cost £60-£70 because the cost of labour and price of copper had increased so much and so the tradition ceased.

They are an interesting collectors item - often they are seen on the backing for quilts but obviously after time the inks fade. As these stamps are still on the roll of cloth they have never been washed or indeed exposed to sunlight.


Here in the North East of England we do not have a history of linen or cotton manufacture however we do have a history of woolen / tweed mills. One such mill was at Otterburn, in Northumberland

 I bought some tweed that had originally been bought from Otterburn Mills when it was still producing it's own cloth.   Otterburn Mill was leased in the 1820's by William Waddell who  took in the wool fleeces from local farmers and in return supplied the farmer with blankets, cloth or knitting yarn. The wool was converted to yarn in the mill and sent to the local hand loom weavers who produced the blankets and cloth. The woven product was returned to the mill to be washed and finished, ready for use.  As the Industrial Revolution progressed the process became more mechanised and factory based. 

Otterburn Mills had royal connections too as whilst on a visit encompassing Alnwick Castle, Queen Alexandra (our Queen's grandmother) was presented with a hand spun travelling rug from Otterburn Mill.
In 1926, following the birth of Princess Elizabeth (our current queen), Buckingham Palace requested a custom-made baby rug for the royal pram. These rugs are still available today from the Mills however they are no longer produced in the mill itself . 



At it's height, Otterburn Tweed was a very stylish fabric and graced the front cover of Vogue and other fashion magazines





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Wednesday, 4 April 2012

1940's and 50's accessories

This week I have bought a couple of boxes at auction that contained everything you need for the well dressed woman of the 1940's!  A couple of bungalow dresses or aprons...   these would have been worn as a dress with maybe a sweater or blouse underneath during the morning in the house so that housework could be carried out. They would never have been worn by a respectable lady outside of the home. She would have always changed into smart clothes including gloves and hat when she went out to do the daily shopping or visiting.

It is quite easy to find sewing patterns to make bungalow dresses and they are simple to make however getting the correct fabric is a little harder - this one is a very typical 1940's print.

The box also had several 1950's hostess aprons - little dinky aprons so that you still look smart when your husband comes home from work and you have his supper on the table (and his slippers warming by the fire!).


Also several pairs of gloves - in all sorts of colours. Gloves, hat, shoes and handbag should always match!


                                               Long gloves for the evening

                                                         And always a hat.....

All perfect for re-enactment weekends, fancy dress or theatre productions. Or maybe just for that glamorous look when you go to the shops!

Monday, 27 February 2012

French fabrics - pink roses, peonies & birds

Our family had many holidays in France and for around 10 years had a holiday home there around the Pont Aven area. (Actually a large static mobile home but a holiday home sounds so much better!)




I bought some French fabrics (currently listed for auction on eBay) during one of those trips to France many years ago.





I have held onto them for a long time now trying to decide where to use them in my house but have finally decided to let them go. Two are curtains and could be used as such. Or could be used for crafts - blinds, cushions, upholstery etc.  The fabric has been stored for a long time and will need cleaning and there is a little sun fading to the edges, the linings are old and faded - but personally I like the tea-stain look of old textiles.  Very shabby chic, old French chateau!



This bird fabric is glorious - in fact, maybe I don't want to sell them after all!






And this one is a profusion of pink roses and purple flowers.

Wednesday, 8 February 2012

The latest auction purchases - Old Bleach to Paisley

Last week took me back to Yorkshire for the Vintage Costume, Textiles, Dolls and Teddy Bears sale.  I don't buy dolls - I hope the doll collectors out there forgive me if I say that I find old dolls a bit scarey.... I think it's the eyes that seem to follow you about and they often have a very self-satisfied smile on their faces. However, I was very glad that I am not a doll buyer as this sale had some very expensive ones....
This Jules Steiner doll  was estimated in the catalogue at £400 - £600 but actually sold for £4900.. when commission is added on that will be £5780!



These 19th Century Miniature Dolls were estimated at £120 - £180 but sold for £2100. 

This German wooden toy laundry set, including mangle, clothes stands, wooden buckets, in a pine box did appeal to me - I'm glad I have an automatic washing amchine to wash all my linens now however! I need it to wash all the white linens that I bought. Several unused linens with the original paper labels



I also bought a box with a number of Christening dresses and a beadwork and tapestry screen


And an antique paisley shawl and other shawls including the edging from a paisley shawl - perfect for crafts. 



And finally, two Durham quilts... one plain pink and the other a pink patchwork one




  




Sunday, 29 January 2012

Second World War household linens - Utility Mark


The auction this week brought a large lot of unused Utility Mark household linens.

They were still in the original brown paper wrapping..all tied up with string.

Some had the original paper labels


 I wonder why they were bought and never used?  Maybe they were intended for "the bottom drawer" and due to the war the wedding was never to be.

The Utility Mark was introduced towards the end of 1941 by the British government with several purposes in mind.

Raw materials (cloth, wool, leather etc.) were in short supply and had to be conserved. Manufacturers needed to become more efficient in their working practices (Much of the skilled labour had left to fight in the war). Clothing prices needed to be kept down so that the civilian population could afford clothing of a reasonable quality.  The government took control of the import and manufacture of raw materials and supplied cloth etc. to manufactures.


Manufactures were encouraged to produce a limited range of garments and other household linens and therefore produce longer runs. This obviously increased efficiency while reducing the choice available.

The style of items produced were also subject to 'austerity' regulations, which restricted how much cloth was used. For example on clothing, pockets were restricted, a maximum length for men's shirts was introduced and a ban on turn ups for men's trousers caused much heated debate.

So in my haul were cream pure wool blankets, pure brushed cotton blankets and cotton twill sheets. The latter are so strong that they will last decades of use unlike the thin cotton sheets of today. Also tucked into one of the parcels were several Irish linen glass cloths and men's hankies

.


Finally, I had to include a photo of one of the adverts from the newspaper that was wrapped around the sheets.  Modern washing machines of the time......apparently labour saving devices? 






 


Saturday, 21 January 2012

A textile treasure box!


So this week at the auctions I came across an eclectic mixture of textiles! I bought a box which was very much a case of "not judging a book by it's cover".



Yes, it looked like this on the outside, and not much more interesting at first glance inside as the top layer was a quantity of old 1950's green shiny damask curtains, but it turned out to be a virtual treasure chest underneath ....


Lots of interesting textiles but a very strange mixture to all come from the same household!




 Harris tweed fabrics in several different colours.


A white Irish linen surplice - complete with page from original catalogue from 1935.



    Lots of lace collars and other Swiss lace trim.


 Ladies silk hankies commemmorating the Coronation of Queen Elizabeth II in 1953.



And lots of white Irish linen napkins - not a set of 4 or 6 amongst them!

All this along with the curtains, several pillowcases full of holes and three bottles of hand cream!



Wednesday, 11 January 2012

First auctions of 2012!

So it's back to the auctions for the first time this year - 2012!  As is the way, there hasn't been an auction for around three weeks due to the Xmas period and then this week there are six - some held on the same day so impossible to get to them all! So, I have had to decide which ones to attend, which to leave commission bids and which to avoid all together!

The first purchase this year was a box of Victorian baby clothes.


They don't look very inspiring in the box however now that they have been washed and pressed........



A great improvement!

At the bottom of the box was a lot of lace and Swiss embroidery trim. As the dresses all came from the same family (Alexander family)and were all hand stitched presumably the lace had been saved from other baby clothes and was awaiting use on more garments.


So now it's ready and available for you crafters out there to use to embellish and create something new.

Another auction tomorrow so I'll get the bidding paddle ready!